With the 152nd Open taking place this July at the Royal Troon Old Course in Scotland, it’s only right to delve into the history of golfing fashion. What probably comes to mind is the Scottish Argyle knit sweater featuring the iconic ‘diamond’ shape print, worn by many golfers, or perhaps the golf polo shirt paired with a classic golfers cap.
Nowadays golf sportswear is made from the best materials for optimal performance and an abundance of styles for everyone, amateur or professional. Yet I think it’s important to look back and see how what we know as golf fashion today really began…
Golf is mostly known as a male dominated sport with around 77% of players identifying as male, according to a study by the National Golf Foundation. So, you probably didn’t know that the very first female golfer known by name was Mary Queen of Scots in the 1500’s, which makes sense as the sport originated from the eastern coast of Scotland. She was known to play golf wearing a wide gown, a puff-sleeve jacket and white gloves, which couldn’t have been all that practical.
As the sport continued and more women began to take part in the Victorian era, ladies wore stiff, crinoline petticoats with wired bustles, this of course is because that is what ladies generally wore at the time and sportswear was yet to be designed. At the time men wore tailored coats, high-collared shirts and knee-length knickers, which would have been easier to play the sport in but still conformed to Victorian dress codes.
It was like this until the end of the 19th century that women began to wear shorter skirts, that showed the ankle, and wear flat caps like the men, both providing sun protection and avoiding muddy skirt hems. Male golf players paired their flat caps with neck ties, single-breasted jackets and ‘spectator’ shoes.
Joyce Wethered was the leading lady in golf throughout the 1900’s, born in South West London, she won the English Women’s Amateur tournament 33 times consecutively. She often sported a flat cap, sweater and a narrow skirt that sat just below the knees. Her style fused roaring 20’s chic silhouettes and polka-dot scarves with serious, monotone short-sleeved shirts.
Around a decade later, Liverpudlian golfer Gloria Minoprio truly made history for female golf fashion. She played in the 1933 English Women’s Amateur championship at Royal North Devon Golf Club wearing ‘slacks’ or better known as trousers! This may seem insignificant today but at the time she caused quite a stir in her monotone black outfit that consisted of black trousers and a fitted long sleeve turtleneck, paired with her sharp cut dark bob that earned her the nickname ‘the lady in black’.
“Had she arrived in the nude, the effect on the officials and other competitors then present could not have been more profound”, commented Enid Wilson who was one of the acclaimed female golfers at the time and Gloria Minoprio told the Boston Globe, “Trousers are freer than skirts, and they aren’t blowing in the breeze and taking my mind off a shot”, according to a 2021 article by Sports Illustrated.
It was in the 1950’s that golf apparel began to resemble what we know it as today, loose-fit collared polo shirts, lightweight colourful trousers and lace up shoes were trendy for men.
Ladies wore a similar collared blouse often with an Argyle knit cardigan and a pleated skirt that sat just below the knee, despite Gloria’s debut of slacks, ladies still opted for skirts that flatter the waist and were not too restricting for a free swing. In the 60’s and 70’s golf fashion really came into its own, from vibrant colour combinations and structured silhouettes to houndstooth print rompers and the ladies ‘skort’.
For women, sports fashion became less about femininity and more about unisex silhouettes like flared slacks and wide shouldered shirts that translated onto the golf course as power and equality in golf.
The rest is history and that brings us to today. Golf attire can be found everywhere from high street stores to high fashion labels, for day-to-day wear and for performance on the course. Argyle print cardigans and preppy V-neck golf dresses are certainly favourites for day-to-day golf-inspired dressing but why not channel Gloria Minoprio and sport an all-black chic look on the golf course. Or perhaps look to Joyce Wethered for inspiration and find a polka-dot accessory that can be worn when you’re out for lunch or on the putting green.
If you need some new golfing attire, make sure to shop from authentic Scottish labels… Lyle & Scott is the place to go if you are after a slick new polo shirt while Fyfe Golf offers quintessential tartan and tweed headcovers and duffle bags that will cater to all your golf accessory needs. Glenmuir is a Scottish sportswear brand established in 1891 that puts performance and comfort first when designing technical golf wear, they also have just released a ladies collection titled ‘The Open’ in celebration of over 150 years of the upcoming championship. Other labels like Ralph Lauren, Lululemon and Adidas also offer fantastic golf ranges for everyone.
I’ll confess I am not a golfer, however my late grandad Viv Devine, went golfing every week and had a real passion for the sport. So, I thought it was important to research and write about a sport he clearly loved, and I’d like to dedicate this piece to him. But whatever you wear on the golf course, the main thing is to have fun when playing golf and appreciate the natural beauty of the golf courses we have all around us. Happy Golfing!
Below are some recommendations of what to shop and where…